NaD TV stand - Day 1

I got extra time to get things started today (thanks wifey). I meant to put up the pictures of the wood before I start for reference. I kind of enjoy looking back at a finished project by remembering how it looked before I did anything.

2"X12"X6' piece of Ash for the back slats.

Six nice boards of sugar maple, too rough to show their true beauty yet.

What was done today

Other than the sled and the tenoning jig, I got two of the maple board milled and stickered. I'll let them settle for a few days and then milled them down to the actual sizes. Milling can be hard work. I discovered that my garage's ceiling is less than 8', which made handling the boards quite awkward. I resorted to making the initial cut to length using my handsaw... to realise that this handsaw is working very well: it probably took a minute instead of 5 seconds, but in the end I'm in for the journey rather than the destination.

Tomorrow...

The big day has arrived! Sophie (my middle child and prime enthusiast woodworker) and I will be making a cutting board together.

A quick jig for making tenons

I need a quick tenoning jig, and will resist the urge to get the nice one at BusyBee tools. Instead, I'll cobble a couple pieces of MDF wasting away in the shop and put them together like this.

The bare minimum to cut tenons for some pieces in the TV stand project.

This will insert into the sled that I've made today, and will clamp to the edges of the sled as well. I'd like to make a better jig in the future, but for now I'll focuss on getting the actual project underway and worry about a versatile design later. I wish this wasn't going to be made with MDF... but hey, let's think pragmatically.

A day later...

The actual jig... minus a few parts.

I did not enjoy working with MDF: the dust is a annoyance but the worst is that it clogged up the drill bit after every pilot hole drilled. Only after a while, I tried a masonry drill bit and solved the clogging problem.  I skimped on one support and one of the wing since neither proved to be necessary to get the job done.

Night-and-Day TV stand

The new project is a TV stand design to hold as many DVDs as possible, the Wii, the cable modem and the DVD player. I could not find an existing design that fit this bill, so I bit the bullet and learned to properly use Sketchup. There is a great website that convinced me that Sketchup was an option for woodworking and furniture design. Taunton also has a E-Book on the topic which is much worth the $10.

The wood was picked up some two weeks ago, the loom is now out of the way. I can now dive into this new project. Here are some Sketchup diagram of the project.

Front view. The dark colour wood is stained sugar maple while the light coloured wood will be figured Pimento veneer.

The exciting bits in this project is the veneering, which I've never done before. Another aspect are the three slightly bent pieces that are near the top of the stand. Bending is another scary thing to try, but I'm doing a very slight bending job here, and if all else fail I can always NOT bend them and pretend that it was not part of the original design (and edit out this paragraph).

I'm working through making diagrams of various sections of the project, but I think that I'll end-up just bringing the laptop in the woodshop rather than to fine-tune each layout for hard copy printing.

Next stop: making a table saw sled which will help with all the dadoing work, decide whether I should make, buy or bypass the tenoning jig, sharpen a few chisels back to mirror polish. Can't wait.

New tote for an old handplane

My father in law lent me this nice No5 handplane that once belong to my wife's grandfather. It didn't work very well and was covered under quite a bit of grease/dust/sawdust. The handplane guy at Lee Valley pointed me to a PDF with a template to make new Stanley/Record handplane handles. I used a bit of scraps from the loom project. The knob had to be improvised because I don't have a lathe. The results are fine, and now that the plane is clean, sharpened and tuned, it seems to work very well. On a test board, I got some nice and fluffy shavings and what appears to be on its way to a glass-like surface.

Here is a picture of the plane, after restoration:

Mackay heirloom plane with shiny new tote and knob.

Shire's Tabletop loom

This project was a long shot for many reasons: one of them is that I have never seen a tabletop loom in action and that the entire design was reverse-engineered from the PDF of a user's guide for a commercial loom.  The second reason is that this is my first project that I have done with rough lumber as a starting point. After biting the bullet and purchasing a jointer, a planer and a bandsaw, I headed to the local specialty sawmill and got myself a bit of Birch and Sapele. The design objective was to play with the dark/light contrast of the two species to create an interesting effect. Another design decision was to make the entire loom in hardwood: making the heddle and the ratchet gear was far from trivial and ended up taking on probably 90% of the time to make this piece. Of course, the original ratchet gears' teeth were too shallow and I had to restart from scratch... In the end, I'm happy with the results and learned so much along the way. Here are some random thoughts:

1. The drill press is my friend. I almost returned it when I realized how big that monster was in my tiny shop. However, I have yet to use a hand drill since I started using this bad boy.
2. Working out the entire thing in Sketch-up is worth the time. I would have seen the clash between the ratchet dog and the transversal support if I had worked out the loom in 3D. I didn't because I thought the whole thing to be obviously without pitfalls.
3. When milling thin stock such as 1/4" birch boards, mill a bit on both face to avoid cupping. I have yet to confirm this, but the only boards that didn't cup were these that I milled from both sides at the same time.
4. Sapele smells so nice when freshly cut. Just that could make my day. And Sapele's golden grain is absolutely beautiful. I'm glad that it isn't a particularly expensive wood to purchase.
5. A chemical respirator is NOT a luxury when working with oil-based finishing products.

The Heddle

This bit was the main challenge. I made a jig from a piece of MDF and some 1/4" birch scraps. The jig fitted snugly one of the board used to make the heddle's teeth. Although the initial idea was to fit 4 teeth per inches, I increased the total width of one cycle (tooth plus space in between) to 5/16". The teeth were routed from three boards with a 1/16" router bit (the smallest one at Lee Valley). Being so small, the bit got burning hot in only a few seconds, which means that I had to rout no more than two teeth before taking a break of about 5 minutes.  The eyes in the heddles were another source of worries as screwing a single one meant to discard about 1/3 of the heddle in one fell swoop. Routing a 1/16" eye in a 4/16" tooth simply didn't work. I resorted to using the drill press to remove most of the material over 1/4", then clean the eyes with a bench chisel. This was one time consuming step, although it was done much faster than the routing part since I didn't have to deal with overheating.

The whole thing came together pretty much as planned. The end teeth between the sections are somewhat closer than I'd like, but I'll fix this up with sanding or a flush saw if this is a problem when weaving.

The Ratchet system

The idea is simple: a piece of birch sandwiched in two piece of Sapele. It does look like a frozen treat to an extent. I started with a 8 teeth gear, which was limited to 1/4" depth per tooth. This proved to be not enough. My second set of gears use a much deeper tooth system, thereby limiting to 4 teeth per gears. This should be enough in practice to control the warping yarn (I hope). Doing this was fun. Although I would have been OK with fitting metal or plastic gears if I could have found a set with the right dimensions.

Putting these together

The rest was astoundingly simple to put together. I had to improvise with the fact that my 3/4" spade bit was a bit larger than the 3/4" dowels that I used in the mechanism. To fix this problem, I inserted a few strips of Sapele in the dowels to create a tight fit. The results look pretty good.

Finishing was done with "boiled" Danish oil (2 coats) and hand-applied polyurethane (4 coats). I could have done more coats of polyurethane, but I think that this will do (and Christmas eve is today so the time has ran out). A few anti-skid pads under the body, some felt patches to protect the heddle and two clear bumps to make positive stop guides to keep the heddle centered, and all that's left to do is to put the loom under the Christmas tree.

The name comes from my wife, who rightfully suggested that the look was in line with what could be found in Tolkien's shire. I love my wife.

Small desktop shelves

While I'm working on the all complex loom project and the No5. Jack plane restoration, I got around to finish the pair of desktop shelves to store the kiddos' computer games.

Working with pine got old fast, but having a first shot at staining was interesting. This is the last project that predates getting all of the heavy duty toys.

My idea of a man cave.

Ok, few people would look at this and wish they had that much stuff in such a small space. But hey, I'm very happy that the machinery is in, working and tuned. This week-end, I'll use this fine piece of Sapele (African Mahogany) to baptise the equipment.

Designing a Heddle for a loom

I'm designing a Heddle for a loom for my wife. I would like to build the heddle with 1/16" veneer strips (1/4" wide). One option is to laminate three strips, one with a 1/4" gap in the middle to make the heddle's eye. The results is thus four blade per inch if we account for a 1/16" gap between the triad of strips. Here is a sketchup of the heddle:

Twelve inches of weaving space made of laminated veneer. This will work if I can find 1/16" veneer...

The question is whether there such thing as 1/16" stock available anywhere.

This post is mainly so I can link the picture to a post on FineWoodWorking.com

Building a workbench II

Let's turn the plan into something to work with (previous post).

Acquiring the lumber

Enough for both the table and the workbench

The good news with this project is that working with framing lumber is inexpensive. In fact, more than half the net cost of the project went into the pipe clamps and steel pipes. It is important to spend time at the lumber yard and turn over a LOT of pieces before settling on the right one. Large pieces tend to be the nicest, but I found enough good 2X4" so that there is no need to mill smaller stock from larger 2X8 and larger. Just budget a good hour to pick the 6-7 item carefully.

Stupid heat wave

This is what happens after 2 weeks in the great big
sauna called North-America

That is it, I get to experience the effect of moisture in wood first hand.

My shiny 20" tabletop made of joined pine boards has expanded under the steaming temperature of the last two weeks.

The discrepancy is still less than 1mm, and the shadow exaggerates the effect, but we're apparently in for a few more weeks of this. I am wondering what will happen when the humidity dies out and winter rolls in.

A table for the tablesaw II

There is nothing like the doggiest day of summer to get for building something. As the apparent temperature raised to 40 Celsius, I went from this:

Enough for both the table and the workbench

To this (sketches here):

Not much to look at, but now I can safely
use the tablesaw for small cuts.

This is not going to be making it to the reader's gallery on finewoodworking.com, but it is strong enough to be used as a step latter if I choose to. I still need to fit a shelf on the lower part, and probably a set of wheels to make it easier to push around when I setup/teardown.

Lesson learned: spruce in the 2X4 stock isn't very good and it makes it unmotivating to do a good job with it. But hey, it sure beats the sad quality of end-joined spruce in the 2X3 stock.  But when push comes to shove, I'd rather spend time and money on other things than this piece of utility furniture. Mmm, oh yes, I don't know how I feel about MDF either (which is what I used for the horizontal surfaces), but it's cheap and does the job.

Building a workbench

Problem and Design

With the addition of  the tablesaw, there is a need to get a workbench that can be used as an outfeed table. It has to meet the following criteria:

1. Be relatively small because of the size of my shop.
2. Match in height the tablesaw's top.
3. Be inexpensive.

The ideal design comes from John White in an article in Fine WoodWorking: the new fangled workbench. The main differences are that the full length will be 4', a width of 24" and will not include a longitudinal set of clamps.  Here is a diagram from which I'll base the bench on:

Smaller version of the New-fangled bench.

The lumber is in the garage, the construction begins tomorrow.

A table for the tablesaw

Alright, I got myself a tablesaw. It is a small jobsite one with the rationale that it can be stowed away when needed (I've got a very small area to dedicate to the shop). The bad news is that, in order to operate it safely, I will need to build a table for it. It isn't so much a bad news, but rather that I'd prefer trying my hand with dovetailing on a nice piece of hardwood...

Problem

I need to take the top of the tablesaw to waist height, or 31". I will build a matching workbench which can be also used as an outfeed table. Here are the constraints:

1. Must be cheap (no fancy hardwood structure here): I prefer to keep my scarce money for a bandsaw, a jointer and a planer for the moment.
2. Must be solid: no vibrations nor wobble that would make operating the saw dangerous.
3. Should have a bit of storage underneath.

Design

The design of this table is very simple: It will be made with framing spruce in the 2"X4" and 2"X2" stocks. The traversal section are made of 2"X4", mounted atop of the legs to ensure very solid joints. The Table top and lower shelf are made of 3/4" plywood.  The L-shaped legs will be both light but sturdy and match the legs on the workbench (to maximize the clamping area near the corners). I plan to make dowels as I go from rounded rods of lumber, although I think that I'll have to use lots of screws to tighten the whole thing.

The diagram doesn't have dimensions on it for two reasons: Inkscape doesn't have a measuring tool, and most measures have to be made on the go (especially with rough lumber such as spruce), which makes keeping track of precise dimensions futile. The only important measure here that isn't going to change is that the top of the tablesaw (13 1/4" height) must fit slightly above at 31": so the legs and tabletop together must add up to 17 3/4". The distance between the bolting holes is also fixed by the dimensions of the table (18" frontage, 20" depth).

Hopefully, I'll get the lumber tomorrow and get cracking on this project: I've got some tenons to make for my pair of desktop shelves to match the desks that I recently completed.

Symmetric Pair of Computer Desks

Detailed view from the left-hand desk

Problem

With this project, I wanted to get started with woodworking while coming up with two computer desks that would fit in our dining-room / computer lab.

• There should be room for 2 computers.
• Maximum of 9'
• Minimal depth of desks.
• Separation of the two workspace as much as possible.
• Must be doable for a beginner with very few tools
• The towers should be underneath, close to each other to share a printer, and protected from kicking.

Design

To meet the problem statement, I came up with the idea of making a pair of IKEA-styl.e symmetric desks. The design is all made of square angles and the joinery is simple. The objective here was to do it precisely so it doesn't look like a DIY project.  I chose Pine as it is cheap, easy to work with (in principle), and available in the correct stock in pre-planned and pre-jointed form from the hardware store. I bought an entry-level Miter Saw and a mid-range plunging router, which were added to a pretty basic set of tools that I already had such as cordless drill and some hand tools.

Of course, my daughter just can't resist
getting in every pictures.

Details: Symmetric Desks

Material: Pine (select and knotty), drawer hardware.

Joinery: Butt joints with dowels. Top surface made of joined boards.

Finish: Water-based Varathane Diamond Finish, satin. Three coats everywhere, except on the tabletop (4 coats), and sanding to 320 grit in between each coats.

Another view